Kojic acid: Ingredient for Cosmeceuticals

Pigmentary disorders, being the third most frequent dermatologic condition, result in considerable psychosocial disability. Melanin is a compound that colors skin, hair, and eyes. Melanin and tyrosinase buildup in cells results in hyperpigmentation and melisma. The key enzyme in the creation of melanin is tyrosinase. Cosmeceuticals are topical cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids that are used as a treatment for hyperpigmentation. These substances disrupt important regulatory processes in melanin formation, specifically targeting hyperplastic melanocytes. Hydroquinone remained the main ingredient for cosmeceuticals; however, recent safety concerns regarding hydroquinone raised the requirement for alternative natural, nontoxic, and productive skin-lightening agents. Kojic acid has a range of human applications, particularly as a depigmenting agent as an alternative to hydroquinone.

What Is Kojic Acid?

Kojic acid is a derivative of 4-pyrone (HOCH₂C₅H₂O₂OH) and was first isolated in 1907. Different fungal species produce it, including Aspergillus oryzae, which has the Japanese common name koji. Naturally, Kojic acid functions as a chelating agent. Kojic acid (KA) prevents melanin production by inhibiting tyrosine activity, thus acting as a UV protector. Because of its anti-inflammatory, complexion-lightening, anti-oxidative, and anti-proliferative properties used in various products, including soaps, serums, lotions, skin creams, and dental care products. Also, as a chemosensitizer, KA could be used to enhance the efficacy of fungicides.

How Kojic Acid Works

Melanin is a pigment that gives skin, hair, and eyes a brown hue. Tyrosine is the pigment required for melanin production. Kojic acid can have a lightening effect because it inhibits the formation of tyrosine, which in turn stops the creation of melanin.‌ ‌ Kai and colleagues (2015) investigated the effects of kojic acid on the levels of melanin and mushroom tyrosinase in mouse (B16-4A5) and human (HMV-II) melanoma cells. Using Kojic acid as a treatment takes time. Kojic acid cosmetics can be applied on a daily basis to achieve noticeable results.

Positive Impacts of Kojic Acid

The positive effects of Kojic acid products include the following:

1. Kojic acid-containing products can have an anti-aging impact by improving the appearance of sun damage and age spots.
2. Kojic acid may also lessen the dark pigmentation connected to specific scar forms, making them less obvious.
3. Kojic acid may also aid in reducing melasma, a pregnancy-related skin discoloration.
4. Kojic acid also helps to prevent and treat certain fungal and bacterial infections, such as athlete’s foot and yeast infections.

Different Forms and Uses of Kojic acid

Cosmetic products containing Kojic acid are authorized for usage. Kojic acid is present in a variety of cosmetic products, such as cleansers, soaps, powders, serums, and creams. Certain products, such as cleansers and soaps, are intended to be rinsed off right away. Some products, such as serums and creams, are meant to be applied topically and absorbed by the skin. Cleansers and creams can be used every day. Although Kojic acid products can be used on any non-sensitive part of the body, they are most frequently used on the hands and face.

Safety of Kojic acid

According to the available human sensitization data, kojic acid at a 2% content in leave-on cosmetics is safe. Dermal sensitization and skin whitening, the two endpoints of concern, would not materialize at concentrations lower than 1%, according to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. As a result, this component is safe to use in cosmetic goods up to that concentration. Contact dermatitis is one possible risk. Certain animal research suggests that Kojic acid can have a mild carcinogenic effect. It is proven safe at the level used in cosmetics and is not thought to exceed carcinogenic limits in human skin.

References

1. Beélik, A. (1956). Kojic acid. In Advances in carbohydrate chemistry (Vol. 11, pp. 145-183). Academic Press.
2. Saeedi, M., Eslamifar, M., & Khezri, K. (2019). Kojic acid applications in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 110, 582-593.
3. Mohamad, R., Mohamed, M. S., Suhaili, N., Salleh, M. M., & Ariff, A. B. (2010). Kojic acid: Applications and development of fermentation process for production. Biotechnology and Molecular Biology Reviews, 5(2), 24-37.
4. Burnett, C. L., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Andersen, F. A. (2010). Final report of the safety assessment of kojic acid as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 29(6_suppl), 244S-273S.
5. Kai H, Matsuno K. Assessment of the effect of arbutin isomers and kojic acid on melanin production, tyrosinase activity, and tyrosinase expression in B16-4A5 and HMV-II melanoma cells. Planta Medica Lett. 2015; 2(1): e39-e41. doi:10.1055/s-0035-1557833
6. Zilles, J. C., Dos Santos, F. L., Kulkamp‐Guerreiro, I. C., & Contri, R. V. (2022). Biological activities and safety data of kojic acid and its derivatives: A review. Experimental dermatology, 31(10), 1500-1521.
7. Noh, J. M., Kwak, S. Y., Seo, H. S., Seo, J. H., Kim, B. G., & Lee, Y. S. (2009). Kojic acid–amino acid conjugates as tyrosinase inhibitors. Bioorganic & medicinal chemistry letters, 19(19), 5586-5589.